Maison des Têtes, a Renaissance façade carved with five faces
On Rue En Fournirue, this Renaissance house takes its name from the five heads carved on its façade: three men and two women, whose identities remain unknown. It was built in 1529 by a wealthy goldsmith, Jean Aubry.
Copies on the façade
The heads you see from the street are copies. Four originals are kept at the Musée de La Cour d'Or, the fifth at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. Look out too for the lion-hunt relief on the stair turret and entrance.
A building site full of finds
While digging the foundations, Aubry found ancient remains, which then decorated the courtyard. According to Wikipedia, the façade was reassembled during the Centre Saint-Jacques works.
The bust that left for Boston in 1913
The Museum of Fine Arts in Boston holds a limestone bust of a man, dated to about 1540 and linked to the style of Ligier Richier, without being attributed directly to this Lorraine sculptor. Its record says it adorned the façade of 33 Rue de la Fournirue, the house's former number, and was taken down and sold to an American collector in 1913. Metz was then part of the German Empire. To see the craftsmanship of these faces up close, the Musée de La Cour d'Or is the natural next stop after the street: comparing them with the copies in place shows what time has changed.
What you see from the street, and what is protected
The 1929 registration does not cover the façade with the heads: the heritage record protects only the courtyard façades, by order of 3 October. It dates the whole to the second quarter of the 16th century, which fits with 1529. The tourist office points out an instructive mix: the busts evoke Antiquity and the Orient, while the composition keeps to medieval habits. The house is private and cannot be visited; you view it at 51 En Fournirue. As for the courtyard's collection of antiquities, an owner gave most of it to the city library in 1843.
Practical information
Address: Rue En Fournirue, 57000 Metz
Frequently asked questions
Is this monument protected?
Yes, it has been registered as a historic monument since 1929.
Can you visit the Maison des Têtes?
No, only the exterior can be seen, as it is private property. From En Fournirue, at number 51, you can freely look at the five heads and the façade decoration, shown in place through copies.
Where can you stay to reach En Fournirue on foot?
Around the cathedral you will be closest to the street and the old centre. Outre-Seille remains a compromise between charm and price. Staylaro's guide « Se loger à Metz » describes the neighbourhoods and lets you search for accommodation.
How do you find the house from Place d'Armes?
Simply follow En Fournirue, which starts from Place d'Armes near the cathedral, as far as number 51. Look for the five carved faces on the façade: they are what mark out the house.
