Porte en Chandellerue, a gate in Metz's medieval walls
Mentioned as early as the 13th century, the Porte en Chandellerue, also spelled Chandeleirue, was one of the many gates in Metz's medieval walls.
A 13th-century opening in the Seille front
The Porte en Chandellerue belongs to the city wall raised in the 13th century to protect the districts that had grown up beyond the old Roman rampart. The archaeologist Julien Trapp, who studied this stretch near the Seille, speaks rather of a postern, meaning a secondary passage, framed by two semicircular towers: the Tanners' Tower and the Culverin-men's Tower. According to Wikipedia, a portcullis closed the passage, and it appears in 1324 among the eighteen or so gates and posterns the city then had. The sources consulted do not explain the exact origin of the name Chandellerue.
Walled up in the 16th century, then erased from view
The story of this gate ends long before that of the ramparts. According to Julien Trapp's note in the journal Archéologie médiévale in 2013, the vaulted passage was probably blocked around the middle of the 16th century, when the land passed to the military authorities. Wikipedia adds that a renovation of the walls, which it does not date, led to the dismantling of the two half-round towers. Several features of this area have vanished, and their layout is known mainly from 19th-century documents. So picture not a monument here, but a sealed entrance swallowed up by the wall.
Neither Porte des Allemands nor Porte Serpenoise: what to come and look for
Do not expect anything like the Porte des Allemands, still standing over the river, or the Porte Serpenoise, rebuilt as an arch in the early 20th century. The Porte en Chandellerue cannot be visited. It lies on the Allée de la Tour des Esprits, right next to the tower of the same name. The archaeological note mentions a walled-up postern in the curtain wall, without saying what a passer-by can make out, and the other sources consulted are no more specific. So come for the walk along the ramparts, and think of this gate as a milestone in their history.
Practical information
Address: Allée de la Tour des Esprits, 57000 Metz
Frequently asked questions
Is this monument protected?
The stretch of ramparts where it stands is protected as a historic monument, but the official record does not name the gate itself.
Can you see the Porte en Chandellerue?
Not as an open gate: the passage was walled up and the sources consulted mention no visits. You can walk outside, along the Allée de la Tour des Esprits, in this part of the old city wall.
Where should you sleep to explore this part of the ramparts?
Choose Outre-Seille for a mix of charm and price near the ramparts, or the centre around the cathedral to do everything on foot. Staylaro's guide “Se loger à Metz” details each district and helps you look for accommodation.
How do you get there on foot?
Head for the Allée de la Tour des Esprits, north-east of the historic centre, on the route that starts at the Porte des Allemands. The Porte en Chandellerue area lies very close to the Tour des Esprits.
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