St Paul's Church, Strasbourg
At the southern tip of the Île Sainte-Hélène, where the Ill and the Aar meet, St Paul's Church raises two neo-Gothic spires 76 metres above the water. Built from 1892 to 1897 as a Protestant garrison church for the German army, it is now a Reformed parish. Its prow-like silhouette on the quays is one of the defining images of Strasbourg.
A church for the soldiers of the Reich
When Strasbourg was German, the city housed a large garrison, and its Protestant soldiers needed a place of worship on the right scale. Work on St Paul's began on 1 April 1892 and the church was consecrated on 9 May 1897. It could hold nearly 3,000 worshippers, around 2,000 of them in the galleries. After 1918 it became the seat of Strasbourg's second Reformed parish, part of the Protestant Reformed Church of Alsace and Lorraine.
A model from Marburg
Architect Louis Müller (1842-1898) took as his model St Elizabeth's Church in Marburg, Hesse, one of Germany's first great Gothic buildings. He echoed its spirit in a neo-Gothic idiom: a twin-towered façade, slender 76-metre spires and a strong vertical thrust. The result, easy to read from the quays, was listed as a historic monument on 4 May 1998. The spacious, bright interior recalls its original role as a large church for gatherings.
The Walcker and Garnier organs
The great gallery organ was built in 1897, the year of the consecration, by the German organ builder Eberhard Friedrich Walcker. Its instrument has been listed since 1987 and its case since 1995. A second organ, in the transept, was installed in 1976 by Marc Garnier. With two organs, St Paul's is a popular concert venue: check the programme if you want to hear them ring out beneath the vaults.
The best view from the quays
The church occupies the tip of the Île Sainte-Hélène, where Quai Zorn and Quai Mullenheim meet. Set at the confluence, it seems to sail forward like a prow, its two spires reflected in the Ill. The opposite quays give the best viewpoints, especially late in the day. St Paul's stands on the edge of the Neustadt, making it a natural stop between the historic centre, the university and the late 19th-century districts.
Frequently asked questions
Where is St Paul's Church?
At the southern tip of the Île Sainte-Hélène, at the confluence of the Ill and the Aar, where Quai Zorn and Quai Mullenheim meet, east of the historic centre.
Is St Paul's a Catholic church?
No. Built as a Protestant garrison church for the German army, it has been a Reformed church since 1918, part of the Protestant Reformed Church of Alsace and Lorraine.
Where is the best spot to photograph St Paul's?
From the quays and bridges facing the tip of the island, to capture both spires and their reflection in the Ill. Late-day light is the most flattering.
What is there to see nearby?
The streets of the Neustadt and the university district are close by. Following the quays west brings you to the Grande Île and the cathedral; the Palais du Rhin is not far to the north-west.
Wikimedia Commons — Laurent Jerry · Wikimedia Commons — Mariia IAKOVLEVA
